patthar ke chaukor tukadon par haath firaate baar baar khud ko yaad dilaayaa , ye itihaas kaa ek hissaa hai aur ise chhoote hee main us samay se is samay tak khinchaa taar hoon . neeche pedon ke jhuramut se chamakate sheeshe jaisaa laal rng kaundhataa hai . ladakee apanee aankhen meenche hnsatee hai aur boodhee aurat baar baar iltazaa karane par bhee apanaa cheharaa naheen uthaatee . main kaimaraa saadhe intazaar karatee hoon fir thak kar usake jhuke chehare aur garadan par paseene kee boond kee tasveer kheench kar sukhee hotee hoon .usane tumhaaree baat naheen samajhee . aisaa kah kar use kuchh mazaa milataa hai . usakee taraf dhyaan n dete huye main fir bhee aurat se poochhatee hoon , suno kaun kaun hai tumhaare ghar men ?
us pachchees saal kee ladakee se jaise main poochhatee rahee thee usake dost ke baare men jo usake saath rahataa thaa . us ladakee se main sirf ek baar milee thee . usane apanee tootee angrezee men mujhe atak atak kar bataayaa thaa apane pyaar aur apane jhagade kee kahaanee . main amooman itanee jijnyaasu naheen hotee . par paraaye desh men kaee cheezen peechhe rah jaatee hain . ek tareeke kee saujanyataa bhee . fir shaayad sab kuchh turat jaan aur kar lene kee zaroorat bhee to hotee hai . taaeem iz kompresd . aur umr ke is mod par ham kaee faalatoo cheezen trim karate chalate hain . hoo keyars a daim . jaise gret vol vaaeen peenaa aur aoyastars khaanaa aur chopastiks se moongafalee n khaa paane kee durdashaa men ailaan karanaa ki gaaeez aam gonnaa yooz maaee fingars .
lautakar tasveeren dekhate hairaan hotee hoon us aurat par jo ungaliyon se viktaree saaeen banaatee hnsatee hai aur kahatee hai it vaaz no big deel . big deel to honaa hee chaahiye thaa . main aisee jagah khadee thee jo samay kaa rukaa huaa hissaa hai . is deevaar kee neenv men kitane majadooron kaa khoon hai . unakee aatmaa vicharatee hai yahaan ? aankh moond kar theek yaheen khade khade main vahaan pahunch jaatee hoon , theek isee jagah par . beem mee ap mistar skotee ! ye kahakar main tvachaa siharaane vaale ehasaas se behoode tareeke se nikal aane kee jugat karatee hoon . patthar ke thndepan yaa jaane kis aur vajah se meree saans tez ho jaatee hai . mere peechhe sainikon kee fauj hai . unake saans kaa uchchhaavaas mere gardan ko chhoo rahaa hai . mere ronye khade ho jaate hain . us patthar ke andhere kamare men raushanee kee ek deevaar hai . neeche dukaan men ming topee hai , lambee chotee vaalee jise khareedate khareedate main rah gaee . badale men bees yuaan men ek chopastiks kaa set liyaa aur pachchees men geeshaa vaalaa chogaa jise pahanate hee main gaayab ho jaatee hoon .
mujhe khet naheen dikhate , mujhe kisaan naheen dikhate , mujhe chhote ghar naheen dikhate . kvaayo men domnjilaa makaan dikhate hain , bohaaee men kuchh aur chhote lekin fir bhee vo duniyaa naheen dikhatee jise main aane ke pahale dekhatee aaee thee , jise dekhane ke liye yahaan tak aaee thee . koee kitaab koee sinemaa koee geet kaa tukadaa , jaane kyaa lekin shartiyaa ye naheen . deevaar ke chaukor khidakee se koee kaafilaa dhool udaataa , ghode ke khur se tapatap nagaade bajaataa naheen dikhataa . aankh band kar loon fir bhee naheen dikhataa . deevaar ke safed choone lage satah par sirf ye likhaa dikhataa hai ..its aol abaaut disiplin .
siyaao ven chashme ke peechhe se hnsatee hai aur kahatee hai meree maan ne mere liye bahut paise kharch kiye . vo mujhase bahut pyaar karatee hai . deevaar se lage ham kuchh der baithate hain . us havaa men saans lete hain jis havaa men hazaaron saal pahale ming aur kin saamraajy ke sainik mngol aur maanchoo aatataaiyon ke khilaaf inheen deevaar ke jharokhon se peeth tikaaye saans roke apane hathiyaar thaame baithate honge . doosare bachche ke liye pachchees saal pahale hazaar yuaan . ab kitanaa denaa hotaa hai ke besharm aur dheeth savaal par taaee yngayo hns padatee hai , maaloom naheen .
siyaao ven meree taraf sookhe falon kaa paiket badhaatee hai . usakaa kaamakaajee naam alis hai . jaise meee huee kaa mariyaa . main chhotaa notabuk nikaal kar devanaagaree men usakaa naam likhatee hoon . fir apanaa likhavaatee hoon , usakee bhaashaa men . mujhe meraa naam foolon ke guchchhe kee tarah dikhataa hai . havaa men halkee khunak hai . mujhe vishvaas naheen hotaa is vakt main yahaan hoon . lekin aashchary , mere man men hameshaa ek bahut chaude aur vrihat jagah kee kalpanaa thee , kuchh tootee footee . aur maaloom naheen kyon hameshaa aisaa lagaa ki gret vol par saaeekil chalaataa koee cheenee boodhaa dikhegaa . lekin yahaan saaeekil naheen chalaaee jaa sakatee . chadhaaee teekhee hai aur seedhiyaan oonchee . alabattaa ek boodhaa dhoop kaa chashmaa lagaaye baithaa zaroor dikhataa hai . usakee nigaah mujh par hai . mere muskuraane par koee javaabee muskaan naheen detaa . main fir bhee muskuraatee hoon . usakee umr mujhe udaar banaa detee hai . ye anajaan jagah , subah kee khushagavaar havaa ..sab .
main raat ko is anajaan desh ke anajaan shahar men , anajaan hotal ke akele kamare men baithee net se kanekted hoon , meree apanee parichit duniyaa . mere aasapaas parichit priy aavaazen hain . thake paanv ko gunagune paanee se dho dene jaisaa aur kabhee kabhee tiyaring intens kat jaise vikat chot par thndee rooee rakhane jaisaa , kabhee linas ke knbal jaisaa . khidakee ke baahar doosaree duniyaa hai . zameen par paanv rakhakar main hisaab karatee hoon ki agar paidal chalaa jaay to ek seedh men chalate chalate kab tak yahaan pahunch paatee . ye vahee meree hee zameen to hai . sadak ke kinaare kee dhool aur ped aur paanee kaa svaad aur logon kee hnsee aur unakee takaleefen aur unakaa jeevan . sab ek saa fir bhee kitanaa alag . tiyaanajin men sadak ke kinaare lagee dukaan men kaan baalee ke sire par jhoolate nanhen jiraaf chhookar main bachchee ban jaatee hoon . chiyaa apane ghar kee baat sunaatee hai . saas ke tnte aur pati se kahaa sunee . baat baat men aankhen sikodakar naak michamichaakar hns detee hai . maasoom kharagosh kee moonchhen . use mere muskuraane kee vajah naheen maaloom . kahatee hai is sadak bazaar men apane pati ke saath chhotee motee cheezen khareedane aatee hai . ech es bee see baink kee nikee liyu dikhatee hai , kisee ke saath hai . peechhe se bachchee see dikhatee hai . baink men tezatarraar afasar lag rahee thee .
kuchh doston ne kahaa thaa ki vahaan log har vakt chaay peete hain . mujhe sirf kamare men rakhaa chaay naseeb hai . rilijiyasalee subah uthakar haree chaay banaakar pee rahee hoon . chaay peete khidakee se dikhataa hai yoonivarsitee bilding kee chahalapahal . saaeekil vaalee len men bheed hai . main khidakee se munh nikaal kar dekhatee hoon der tak . us din kitaabon ke dukaan men kitanee kitaaben theen , angrezee seekhane vaaleen . aur maze kee baat , ek taraf madaam kyooree kaa postar . fir mujhe yaad aataa hai cheyaramain maao kee tasveer vaalee teesharts , deevaar ke neeche vaalee chhotee dukaanon men , jahaan aurat hns kar kahatee thee , sirf ek dolar bas . mainne naheen lee thee vo teeshart par us aurat ke saath ek foto zaroor khinchavaaee thee . usane poochhaa thaa , paakistaanee ? mainne kahaa thaa indiyaa fir ham sab hns pade the .
buddh bhagavaan kee moorti ke aage log agarabattee jalaa rahe hain . mndir ke baahar lohe ke bade kathaut men haath bhar bhar kar agarabattee ke gatthar . main foto kheenchate sochatee hoon , kaipshan achchhaa banegaa , preeeng in chaaeenaa . chiyaa ko dharm aur bhagavaan samajhaane men kaisee dikkat huee thee . kamyoonizm aur dharm aur free ikonomee . mere palle kuchh naheen padataa . mol men chamakate dukaanon men braanded saamaan , stet kntrol , olampiks aur behatareen infraastrakchar ..pingapong bol kee tarah ham vaapas lautate in vishayon par bahas karate hain . cheen men rilokat kee itailiyan knpanee kee dekharekh karate french raashtreeyataa ke antoaan se main poochhatee hoon , cheen chhodo ab apane desh ke haal bataao . thakehaare dinabhar kee ghumaaee se klaant , ham dheere dheere dheemee aavaaz men alag shaharon kee baat karate hain , rahanasahan ke kharche , zarooraten , soshal sekyooriteez , khaanaapeenaa , traansakontinental flaaeets ke ubaaoo samay ke sadupayog , jetalaig se bachane ke tareeke .
baahar bhaagate sadak ke paar pedon kee kataar hai . itanee saghan ki unake paar kee duniyaa naheen dikhatee . mujhe kabhee padhe ,roos kee zaareenaa kaithareen kaa ek kissaa yaad aataa hai . vo jab mahal se dehaat kee or nikalatee thee , tamaam raaste nakalee ghar aur ped aur khushanumaa jeevan dikhaate kataaauts use dikhaaye jaate , prajaa kitanee samriddh hai . mujhe aisaa hee kuchh bhaas hotaa hai . antoaan peris kee baat karataa hai jahaan saal ke chh aath maheene rahataa hai . baakee ke din yahaan aur bhaarat ke beech shatal karataa hai . chiyaa se french men baat karataa hai aur chiyaa fir apanee cheenee bhaashaa men draaeevar se . chiyaa traansaletar hai . usakee french usake angrezee se behatar hai . maayoos hokar bataatee hai ki traansaletar ko achchhee tanakhvaah naheen milatee . gaadee ke andhere men ham dheemee aavaaz men baat karate hain . mujhe lagataa hai ye safar kaheen bhee ho sakataa hai , kisee bhee desh kisee bhee kaal men . main chaahatee hoon ab chup ho jaaoon . andhere men aankh gadaakar khet aur pokhar dekhoon , logon ko dekhoon , battakh aur murgiyaan dekhoon , chiyaa kaa ghar dekhoon , usakee rasoee men pakate khaane kee bhaap aur khushaboo soonghoo , usake nahaanaghar men magge aur baaltiyon men bharaa paanee apane badan par uleechoon . aashchary , poore shahar men ek bhee jaanavar naheen dekhaa . koee parindaa , gauraiyaa kauvvaa tak naheen . ab logon ko bhee kahaan theek se dekhaa . sirf sadak dekhe , badee badee imaaraten dekheen , flaaeeovars kaa jaal dekhaa , shahar kee aatmaa kahaan dekhee ? parl bak kee piyonee aur gud arth yaad karate rahane kaa faayadaa kyaa huaa ? ming vaasez aur penting aur hnsate huye buddh . fir aur kyaa ? hotal ke kamare men raat ko meee huee kaa fon aataa hai . main achaanak behad aatmeey aur taral ho jaatee hoon . peechhe se usake teen saal kee bachchee ke jhilamil hnsane kee aavaaz aa rahee hai .
subah kee chaay munh men halkaa kasaa svaad detee hai . main subah se kamare kaa muaayanaa kar rahee hoon . kabard men kapade ke chappal ke saath saath aaeeraning bord aur aaeeran , chhataree aur joote saaf karane kaa brash , baatharob . jaane kyaa kyaa daraaj men , steshanaree, pins stepalar . main kamaraa sahejatee hoon , ye jaanate huye bhee ki mere nikal jaane ke baad haausakeepeeng vaalee aurat kamaraa saaf karegee . usakaa chaudaa cheharaa mujhe dekhakar muskuraataa hai . kal jyovaannee ne kahaa thaa ki cheenee log vishvaas karane yogy naheen hote aur ye ki unake chehare se unake bhaav ko bhaanpanaa behad mushkil hotaa hai . mujhe to sabakee muskaan bhalee lagatee hai . footamasaaj karane vaalee lain fen kaa aur do chhokare jo raat ke gyaarah baje , pahale din chek een karane ke turat baad mere kamare men aakar mere laipatop par net kaa jugaad kar gaye the , aur mere baabaa aadam laipatop ko dekhakar jis tarah maindareen men kuchh kah kar hnse the ki main bhee hns padee thee , puraanaa khastaahaal laipatop hai n ! yaa fir meee huee jisane sel fon par apanee betee kee tasveer dikhaaee thee aur isaraar kiyaa thaa ki main bhee use apane parivaar kee dikhaaoon . yaa fir kitaabon ke dukaan men mere paas yuaan n hone par usane kisee mashahoor cheenee lekhak kee baaeelingual cheenee angrezee kitaab mere liye khareed dene kee zid kee thee .
yahaan mujhe baar baar bhaarat men rahane vaale robart vonng kee bhee yaad aatee hai . vo mere baal kaatataa hai aur cheenee hai aur har baar mere poochhane par hasarat se kahataa hai ek din zaroor cheen jaaoongaa , kaintan, jahaan se mere maataa pitaa sattaraek saal pahale bhaarat aaye the . ham kahaan se kahaan pahunch jaate hain , shaayad sab kisee vrit men gol ghoomane jaisaa hai .
tiyaanajin ke cheenee restaraan men bade taink men tairate oktopas aur kraibs aur machhaliyaan pasnd karate , mere sahakarmee kee , jo vokal vejeeteriyan hai , dikkat saaf dikhatee hai . use poore desh men khaane kee mahak ne pareshaan kar rakhaa hai . mujhe is naee jagah men khaanaa bhee ek naee duniyaa talaashane kaa saa romaanch de rahaa hai . paaneedaar soop men taazee haree sabjiyaan mujhe khushee se bhar detee hain . main us sahakarmee ko samajhaatee hoon , shaayad in logon ko hamaare yahaan ke garam masaale kee khushaboo jaan maar detee ho . vo apanee baat par adaa hai . main use anasunaa karate ek saabut bhaap se pakaaee machhalee kaa aannd letee hoon , chopastik kee bajaay kaantaa chammach maangane par kaafee der baad ek soop peene vaale chammach ke jugaad hone ke intazaar men loo sin se seekhatee hoon chop stik pakadane kee adaayen . kuchh kuchh usee tarah jaise bachapan men seekhaa thaa naaeef fork ke eteeket aur paayaa thaa ki chaahe unase khaanaa kitanaa sofistiketed lage ungaliyon se khaanaa hameshaa zaayake ko dugunaa karataa hai . kaee baar lagataa hai hamaare bheetar ve cheez jinase ham jeevan ke kinhee stej par vidroh karate rahe hon , nakaarate rahe hon , vahee sab apanaa pratishodh, vakt aane par, hamaare vyaktitv par haavee hokar letee hain . main ungaliyon se bhutte ke daane ek ek karake munh men daalatee hoon . bachapan men thele ke saamane khade hokar aag men pake bhutte par neeboo aur kaalee namak lagaakar khaane kaa sukh jaise fir se munh men bhar jaataa hai . main ek hee samay men do jagahon par ho jaatee hoon , do vakt par bhee . aankh band kiyaa to bachapan men . aur aise smriti ko pakad kar jaise is samay ko ek sndarbh denaa chaahatee hoon . apane ko zameen detee hoon aur ek aahlaad se bhar uthatee hoon . ye pakkaa us gret vol vaaeen kaa asar to naheen hee hai .
saaeekil chalaate log, saaf sutharee chaudee sadaken , imaaraten , haaeehe nadee ke kinaare , shahar ke vo hisse jahaan itailiyan aur jarman , french , beljiyan aokyoopeshan ke prabhaav dikhate hain , sundar bngale .. main foto kheenchatee hoon lagaataar . logon ke chehare , door se paas se , hnsate , bhaunchak , jijnyaasu , bachche , boodhee auraten , restaraan ke mez par chopastiks aur khaane se bhare bol kaa snyojan , kamare men fal , vaas men baimboo shoots , baatharoom men kataar se rakhe baathafoms .. tasveeren vaisee hee aatee hain jaise kaheen kee bhee kheenchee gaee tasveeren .. sachamuch jo mujhe dikhaa thaa ..kitanaa kitanaa sundar ..unakaa rng , unakaa aakaar , unakee gaharaaee , unakaa paripekshy .. foto par achaanak kaee baar unakaa jaadoo jaise gaayab ho jaataa hai . sab mahaz fotoz hee rah jaate hain ..laipatop skreen par chamakate rngeen dastaavez ..kaheen ke bhee ho sakate hain .. sirf main jo unako dekhatee hoon to sirf tasveer men darz cheezen hee naheen , unake saath us samay kaa tatv , khushaboo , tvachaa par havaa kee chhuan . jeebh par kisee shabd kaa svaad , honthon par kisee hnsee kee smriti , sab haraharaa kar tootakar jhamm se kood jaate hain .. us jagah kaa jaadoo , meraa jaadoo . shaayad sirf meree smriti kaa bhram !
teevee par koee cheenee gaanaa baj rahaa hai aur main sochatee hoon main kaheen kee bhee ho sakatee hoon yaa shaayad kaheen kee bhee naheen . aur ye ki kalpanaa men koee jagah itanee roomaanee aur rahasy bharee kaise hotee hai . aur ye bhee ki sach bhee kitanaa alag hotaa , alag kism kee roomaaniyat aur jaadoo bharee duniyaa lekin kalpanaa se kitanee door fir bhee kitanaa sachchaa sundar aur bharapoor . eet riyalee iz a big big deel !
kisee bhee naee jagah ko dekhane kaa sabase badaa faayadaa sirf ye hotaa hai ki ham apane aap ko naye spes men rakh kar dekh paate hain . aap jagah naheen dekhate , jagah aapako dekhatee hai aur aap khud ko . aaeene ke saamane safed baatharob pahane meraa cheharaa meraa naheen lagataa .
pratilipi se saabhaar
